印度人的中国日记不禁让人想起：台湾人的日本......

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I first visited China in 1995 for the United Nations Conference on Women in Beijing and on my return to the US, I wrote about the amazing strides China was making in infrastructure, poverty reduction and education. Today 18 years and three visits later I return to my country, India, very depressed. My country is so far behind that I feel we can never catch up. Not under a government that has for the last decade failed to deliver on anything but corruption.
My nine-day, four city whirlwind visit to Beijing, Xian, Zhengzhou and Shanghai  was a real eye-opener on what Political Will can achieve with policies that are people and growth-centered.  Beijing itself had changed so much for the better since my last visit. Six-lane highways, wide roads, beautiful landscaping along with wide people- friendly pavements greeted us wherever we went. Unlike New Delhi, there were no ugly garbage dumps or streets littered with debris and rotting waste or potholed roads with ugly dividers full of dirt and plastic bags. In fact the there was just no litter anywhere. The city seemed to have sweepers round the clock! The government buildings were beautifully maintained –- no peeling paint and mountains of dust-covered files. While here in our capitol the present government and various agencies have torn Delhi down several times only to forget to rebuild it.
Our plush hotel, The Crowne Plaza, was on Wangfujing Street a block away from what is popularly called Walking Street and less than two kilometers from Tiananmen Square. I would highly recommend this great location as in the evening all we had to do was to step out and catch the action.
The vibrancy around us, the lights, the shiny new buildings, the large boulevards and pavements and the hundreds of well-dressed couples and young people skating, dancing and eating all around us was invigorating. In the patio of a well-lit old church someone had music playing and while the older couples jived the younger ones break-danced. In between kid’s roller skated. Another street was full of exotic food vendors neatly lined up in rows selling everything from noodle soup to sea food that may be too wild for Indian tastes.
Our tours to the Great Wall, Forbidden City, Summer Palace were all the better for the ambiance around the sites. No parking problems, vendor stores were orderly and clean, no garbage, uniformed sweepers everywhere diligently picking up any scrap that fell and again highways that make touring a delight.
I saw a lady at a Seven Eleven cleaning the food counter. She had a cap and gloves on and was meticulous. Nearby a pavement with a loose tile was being mended by a labourer who replaced the tile and neatly joined the edges, while I looked on in astonishment. How I wished we had the same sense of cleanliness and pride in our work in India. The other aspect that is worth noting is that every building site had labourers that were well-equipped with boots, helmets and uniforms. I compared them to the poor working on a building next door where women and men in torn clothes and barefoot  toiled from 8 am to 8 pm, and wondered why we did not have the basic laws to protect them. If we gave them a better environment and cared perhaps they too would be as productive and diligent as the Chinese.
For the Great Wall make sure to go to the Badaling Section where a cable car takes you to a decent height and the panoramic view from here is unbeatable. One can actually catch the wall snaking up several mountains and as they say on a clear day you can see forever. Luckily for us the four days spent in Beijing were all very clear so we did not have to contend with the pollution, which I hear is particularly bad in winter. In all our tours the biggest attraction was Ishwinder our tall Sikh friend. His beard and turban attracted much attention and gave us the glamour quotient. Young girls and families would request a photo with him. They were polite and excited at seeing someone so differently dressed. Tinkoo his wife and I would tease him and Sanjaya, my husband was tickled by the Chinese wonderment and delight on seeing a Sikh.
Two other must see places, in Beijing are the Lama Temple, where a 26 metre high Buddha carved entirely from one piece of white sandalwood is stunning. It was built in 1694 during the Qing Dynasty. The Temple of Heaven is another spectacular monument that I preferred to the Forbidden City because of the intricate carvings and awe-inspiring architecture. It is a Taoist Temple constructed from 1406 to 1420 during the reign of the Yongle Emporer, who also built the Forbidden City.  It was a place where emperors went to pray for good harvests.
The Chinese Government puts a lot of effort into making their public places, from parks to roads to government buildings and monuments, aesthetic, people-friendly and spectacularly well-maintained and clean. Five years after the Olympics, it was a pleasure to see the stadiums, the landscaping with beautifully laid our rose gardens, street lights and every detail just like the days before the great event. In Delhi the Commonwealth Games venues are falling into disrepair – a giant waste of public money and a sad commentary on our government.
From Beijing to Xian, we went by a superfast Maglev train, the distance of 1100 plus kilometers took just over 5 hours. At 300 km. per hour, we passed acres of farmland and small villages and towns.  All along the way there were four to six lane highways and the villages seemed prosperous with electricity lines and proper cement buildings with red roofs and courtyards. At the several stops we made at stations that looked like airports, the platforms were kept clean by sweepers always on the job. The smartly turned out stewardesses on the train gave us cokes and a lunch box. The train itself was luxurious with reclining seats, lots of leg space and very tastefully upholstered – an unbeatable way to see China. We were travelling business class but I made it a point to see the economy class and it was just as clean with slightly smaller seats and less leg room. The toilets were super clean with toilet paper, running water and soap. Every 30 minutes a lady with gloves and proper cleaning paraphernalia would go in and clean it!
The city of Xian consisted of miles and miles of high rises some in the process of being built and again six to eight lane highways and several elevated roads took us to every part of the city. Xian is an old city but the Chinese have built around it to accommodate the growing population and also housing for low income groups. The excavation site where some neatly divided areas of terracotta warriors are still being dug was enormous but again the authorities had made the experience well worthwhile. Beneath huge warehouse-like structures the giant excavation lay in all its glory. Rows and rows of soldiers, some with no heads or hands, stood as they would have 2000 years ago. On elevated platforms that ran around the three sites, visitors walked around in awe. The largest site had 6000 terracotta warriors from generals to foot soldiers. We were told thousands more lay at the excavation site, buried several hundred feet below. The work would continue for years to come.
From Xian in a little over two hours a superfast train took us to Zhengzhou, the capital city of Henan province. Here we were to experience Chinese hospitality at its best. Ishwinder’s friend Mr. Zhang Qi who lived here took it upon himself to wine and dine us and take us to the oldest Shaolin Temple where Batuo a Buddhist monk from India brought Buddha’s teachings and martial arts to China in 464 AD. In actual fact several well-known Chinese intellectuals studied in one of the oldest universities in the world, Nalanda in India, and took back teachings not only on Buddhism, but mathematics, astronomy, medicine, law and linguistics. It is sad how  much we have to show and how badly we show it.
The Shaolin Temple and Pagoda complex are worth a visit, especially for Indians interested in history and the 30 minute martial art display by students residing there are was very impressive.
Then we went to the massive Buddha Grottos at Longmen. There are 1400 hundred caves and 100,000 Buddha statues which were started around 493 BC during the Northern Wei Dynasty. Some statues are as small as one inch and the largest is 57 feet. Again the tourism authorities had created an enormous beautifully landscaped area around the caves that were carved out of a hillside.  No cars even VIPs were allowed anywhere near it – everyone had to hike to the spot.
Our friend and guide Mr. Zhangi Qi refused to allow us to pay for anything, from the air-conditioned SUV to the fantastic lunches and dinner and expensive entrance fees.  Along with the hospitality came the extra consideration that we be treated to Chinese food with a difference. At one lunch 14 dishes were served, all vegetarian but in look and taste it was better than meat dishes.
Although, much smaller than Beijing and Shanghai, Zhengzhou also has a new city designed by the world famous Japanese architect, Kisho Kurokawa. The planning is perfect. A wide circle of stunningly designed office and residential towers surround massive man made lake and exhibition centre.  Lush green parks with trees and paved areas for picnicking, landscaped and clean walkways, complete what an ideal planned modern city should look like.
Finally, we arrived in Shanghai, which is as vibrant as New York but newer and plusher. Our young 26-year-old guide, Julie told us it was safe at night and when she worked for the Expo she used to go home by cab at 3 am in the morning! She said the bright lights, crowds and policing kept the city safe.   If only our government could do as much for our young people and tourists.

In the Shanghai National Museum there is a whole gallery of sculptures of Bodhisattva’s from different periods of Chinese history from 5th Century AD onwards.  I only wish our National Museum in Delhi, which has far older and more priceless pieces was as well ordered and displayed. The last time I went the Gupta period was in darkness much to the dismay of the foreign tourists and my shame. When I went to the authorities they told me in their typical bureaucratic fashion the bulbs and been indented for!  
The places that were really worth a visit, in Shanghai, were the French quarter, which had quaint narrow walking streets and bistros that served coffee, beer and continental cuisine; the TV tower from where you get a bird’s eye view of Shanghai and its distinctive skyscrapers, each one a masterpiece of architecture; the Yu Yaun Gardens and the museum. A walk on the Bund along the river is to take a ride down history lane. All along the Bund are European styled buildings from the famous Hong Kong Shanghai Bank building and the Shanghai Customs House to the former Jardine Matheson and Company building. The banks and major European companies of the late 19th and early 20th Century that did business in China more than a century ago are still standing beautifully preserved, not a brick out of place.
It is creditable how a country that was once closed to the outside has done so much in such a short time to reinvent itself. From the swanky airports, to the massive steel and glass railway stations to the futuristic highways and well preserved tourist-friendly ancient monuments, it is little wonder that China gets about 55 million tourists annually and India gets just six million. And although we have much better monuments and a very diverse history and culture due to massive apathy, corruption and total lack of political will our infrastructure is shockingly bad and our fantastic historic sites are surrounded by potholed roads, garbage, filthy stalls full of flies, beggars and touts that are a total put off for tourists.

我第一次去中国是1995年参加在北京召开的联合国妇女大会。会后我回到美国，对于中国基础设施建设以及减少贫困和完善教育取得的惊人

进步写了文章。18年后的今天在（对中国）进行三个访问后我回到了祖国印度，心情非常沮丧，我们的国家很落后，我感觉我们也许永远无

法赶上（中国了）。我们的政府过去十年没有消除腐败。

我用了9天时间旋风般的访问了中国四个城市北京，西安，郑州和上海。真是大开眼界啊！是什么样的政治什么样的政策能达到这样的发展水

平。距我上一次访问北京这里的的改变非常大！六车道的高速公路宽阔的街道以及美丽的绿化还有友好的人。这里没有新德里那样的满地垃

圾和街道上散落的各种腐烂碎片还有崎岖不平的道路沾满双脚的泥土和到处都是的塑料袋。事实上这里任何地方都没有垃圾，这个城市的清

洁工似乎昼夜不停的工作！政府大楼整洁美丽--没有剥落的油漆和堆积如山的灰尘。而新德里的政府部门和各个机构老旧的似乎都忘了翻新它和重建它。

我们住在王府井大街上豪华的皇冠假日酒店，这里距离步行街和到天安门广场不到两公里。我强烈推荐住在这里，非常好的位置。这样我们就可以在晚上在街上散步和了解这里的文化。

我们的周围活力四射。崭新的建筑，灯光，林荫大道和无数穿着时髦的年轻人 情侣，他们在溜冰跳舞吃着小吃周围的一切都那么的鼓舞人心。明亮的

老教堂的院子里有人演奏着音乐，老年人跳着广场舞，年轻人则跳着街舞。孩子们玩着滚轮溜冰。另一个街道则充满了异国情调的食品摊贩整齐地排

列着，销售着从汤面到海鲜 也可能有强烈的印度口味。

我们参观了长城，故宫，颐和园。这些地点周围的环境更好。没有乱停放的汽车，商店整齐干净有序。见不到垃圾，到处都有穿着制服的清

洁工在努力工作，整洁的街道让旅游充满乐趣。我看见一位女士一遍又一遍的清洁着食品柜台，她带着帽子和手套一丝不苟的工作。附近路

面松动的地砖被一名工人修补替换新的，我惊奇地看着这一切。

我多么希望我们印度也能有这样的整洁和自豪感的工作阿！另一方面我注意到每一个建筑工地的工人都有精良的装备，靴子，头盔和制服！

我们比他们穷的工人在大楼里工作无论男女都穿着破烂的衣服光着脚辛苦地由早干到晚。我不明白我们为什么没有最基本的法律来保护他

们。如果我们给他们一个更好的工作环境和关心也许他们也会和勤奋的中国人一样富有成效。

去八达岭长城部分最好坐缆车，因为在这样一个高度你所能看到全部景观这真是无与伦比！城墙在山里蜿蜒曲折，他们说在晴朗的日子里你能看的更

远。幸运的是我们在北京的四天里天都很好，所以我们不需要面对污染问题。我听说在冬天天气会很糟糕。我们旅游中最大的吸引力来自我们的高大

的锡克教朋友“文德”。他的胡子和头巾吸引了太多的目光，给我们平添了很多魅力指数。很多年轻的女孩和家庭想和他拍照。他们礼貌和兴奋地看着这

个穿着不同的人。廷库的妻子和我会取笑他，我的丈夫桑佳亚则很高兴中国人会喜欢锡克教徒。

另外两个必看的地方在雍和宫，26米高的佛像是用一块完整的白色檀香木雕刻的，非常惊人。它建于1694年的清朝时期。天坛是另一个惊人的建筑。

我更喜欢故宫因为那有复杂的雕刻和令人惊叹的建筑。（天坛）是一个道观样子的结构建于1406年到1420年间当时是永乐皇帝统治时期，他还建造了故宫。（天坛）是皇帝祈求丰收的地方。

中国政府把大量的精力用于维护他们的公共场所。从公园 道路到政府建筑纪念碑都维护的良好干净。五年前的奥运会我们很高兴能看到（鸟

巢）体育场，优美的绿化街灯花园每个细节都好像就在几天前一样。新德里的英联邦运动会场则年久失修，真是巨大的浪费！我只能悲伤的评论我们的政府。

从北京到西安我们乘坐超高速的子弹列车，1100多公里的距离仅用了5个小时，时速在300公里。我们经过了农田小村庄和城镇。一路上看到

有四到六车道的高速公路。村庄里有电力线路和带庭院的红屋顶水泥建筑，这些象征着这里的繁荣。火车站就像机场，清洁工保持着站台的

干净整洁。火车上有潇洒地变成空姐一样的乘务员给我们可乐和午餐盒饭，座位是豪华的躺椅腿部空间非常大。还有非常雅致地中国风格的

软垫（哥吐槽，貌似坐高铁没见过这东西啊？）我们坐的是头等车厢，但是我看到经济车厢和头等一样干净整洁，只是座椅略小和腿部空间

少了些。厕所超级干净有卫生纸自来水和肥皂。每半小时有一位女士来做清洁工作。

西安的市区包括无边无际的高楼和一些正在建设的工地。又见到六到八车道的高速公路和高架道路，可以带我们去几个城市的每一个角落。西安是一

个古老的城市，中国人围绕着它来建设以适应不断增长的人口和低收入群体对住房的需求。当局很有经验地挖掘兵马俑巧妙地划分一些地区，地下巨

大的仓库里躺着这个巨人其所有的荣耀。一排排的士兵，它们有一些没了头和手，它们来自在2000年前。在高架平台上游客用敬畏的心来浏览。最大

的坑里站有6000个兵马俑，从将军到士兵。我们被告知还有成千上万的兵马俑仍埋在几百英尺下等待着被发掘，这项工作将持续很多年。

从西安做两个多小时的超高速火车我们来到了郑州。河南省的省会。我们是中国最好的酒店体验者。文德的朋友张先生住在这里，他好酒好菜地款待

了我们，还带我们去了最古老的少林寺。拔陀和尚从印度把佛陀的教义和武术在公元464年带到中国。事实上中国的著名知识分子研究表明，世界上最

古老的大学之一在印度的那烂陀。并不仅在佛教教义上提供支持，还在数学，天文学，医学，法律和语言学上提供支持。可悲的是，我们对这些知道多少，我们怎么能表现出来。

少林寺的塔林是值得一看的尤其是印度人的历史和30分钟的武术表演令人有深刻的印象。然后我们去了龙门石窟，这里有巨大的佛像，有14万个洞穴

和100000个佛像，始建于北魏王朝，在公元前493年左右。小的雕像只有一寸，最大的有57英尺。旅游部门建立了一个巨大的错落有致的参观道在洞

穴的周围的山坡上。没有任何贵宾的汽车被允许接近它--每个人都只能走路上去。

我们的朋友张先生拒绝我们花任何的钱，带空调的SUV（难美妙的午餐和晚餐还有昂贵的门票（都是由他支付）。由于不用在酒店吃饭，我们对中国

食品的认识是在一次有着14道素菜的午餐上，虽是素食但是味道和外观都堪比肉类菜肴！

虽然比北京和上海小得多，郑州新城的设计也有世界著名的日本建筑师紀章的参与。规划完美的生活圈，办公室和住宅大楼周围有巨大的人

工湖还有购物中心。郁郁葱葱的树木和公园用于野餐的铺砌区域，各种景观和干净的人行道。完成理想的现代化城市规划。

最后我们抵达上海，这里和纽约一样充满活力但是这里更新更豪华！我们年轻的26岁的导游朱莉告诉我们这里晚上是安全的。当她在世博会

工作时要在凌晨3点坐出租车回家，她说明亮的灯光，人群和保安保持城市的安全。如果我们的政府能做尽可能多的工作为我们的年轻人和游

客该有多好(三嫂又吐槽印度的治安，强奸国度凌晨3点，单身女性坐出租车？想要被轮奸的节奏吗？）上海国家博物馆有一个画廊雕塑着从

公元5世纪开始的菩萨到中国的不同的历史时期。我只希望我们新德里的博物馆里能有更多的@￥%…更多的无价之宝。最后一次我走在黑暗

的笈多时期，失望的是外国游客，耻辱的是我们。我们当局典型的官僚主义方式告诉我@#￥%……

更值得一去的地方是上海法租界，有古雅的狭窄的步行街和小酒馆，咖啡，啤酒和欧陆美食，你还可以到东方明珠电视塔上鸟瞰上海及其独特的摩天

大楼，豫园花园和博物馆每一个建筑都是杰作。在上海外滩散步沿着河是沿着历史的车道，沿着外滩是欧洲风格建筑从著名的香港上海银行大楼和上

海海关前怡和集团公司大楼。这些银行和欧洲公司主要是在19世纪末和20世纪早期在中国做业务时建立的，一个多世纪过去了仍保存完好，没有缺一块砖。

它是可信的国家曾经是如何在这么短的时间改造自己。从豪华机场，巨大的钢铁和玻璃建造的火车站到高速公路和保存完好的古代遗迹，难

怪中国每年大约有5500玩的游客，而印度只有六百万。虽然我们有更好的历史建筑和非常不同的历史和文化，但由于巨大的冷漠，腐败和缺

乏政治意愿，我们的基础设施是令人震惊的差。神奇的历史遗迹四周都是崎岖不平的道路，垃圾，肮脏的摊位，无数的苍蝇乞丐。还有吹捧。这些都献给了游客。

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台湾人大赞日本痛批中国的风格和本文的作者何其的相似呀

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以下是印度网友的评论：
Krishnan Bala：
令人钦佩的文章，中国有价值的宝藏被骄傲的保存了下来。中国巨大的进步使得一个有着封建等级制度的最现代化国家的价值观令人钦佩（哥不明白，这话是夸还是贬呢？）每个公民的意识和自愿合作是必须的。人是一种动物，除非强迫，向印度这样的（没有公民意识）就是个垃圾国家。

navneetkumarbakshi/
我已经在中国生活了四年了，你看到的，我都看过了。我开了博客来写关于中国的事情。我还没有写完。可能我写的不足，我约写了100个博客，给我带来了上百上千的粉丝，这些粉丝包括中国的也有印度的。一些批评人士一直大声疾呼没有见过什么治理良好的国家。如果你有时间请读下我的博客，我也会把你的博客推荐给我的中国粉丝。我们必须赞美应得的人，如果我们能放弃偏见，中国值得致敬

V-S-Gopal/
一个好的表现，我承认,中国远远领先于印度。我再1980年和1995年访问过中国， 现在我还保持这联系，在印度除了缺乏治理
我们的人民缺乏纪中国人的纪律,不努力工作和缺少真诚。 中国的规范和价值观似乎远远优越。

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这文章简直和几年前的“游日本，我震惊了！”一个论调：


强调基础建设，干净整洁


人民的勤劳好客礼貌


对文物的保护


“对我们国家的了解比我都多！”


文字间夹叙夹议，痛骂着自己的国家和政府


——果然人性都是共通的么

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他们这样也是一叶障目而已，其实也是不客观的。

每个国家都有好的一面和不好的一面，这区别只是好坏占的比例。但像作者夸成无缺点这样是错误的（虽然他赞美中国我很高兴）

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原文地址：http://creative.sulekha.com/my-china-diary_613259_blog

xloongx

你的文章字太过频密~cnp的吗？

devilredcantona

很详细报导。。

pes2013

我會花時間看的

不做好人

以印度的人口应该和中国，美国，欧洲媲美的，可是却落后这么多~
明明医疗很发达~

bboyed

印度那种的确需要中国管制才能够发展啊。。纪律和强制性管制。这些都是民主国的够力弱点

lwdhw

中国没什么好夸奖的。只不过它的治安值得称赞。我在中国，晚上11点多了还能看到三三两两的女孩儿们从电影院出来，边聊天边走路回家，这个时候，小饭馆里仍然能看到一些普通的男男女女在吃饭，或者聚餐吃宵夜，街上游荡的人很多，但不是卖毒品的和不良少年。还能经常能在凌晨时分看到骑电动车的女性，像是普通工人下夜班的样子。

bboyed

就像越南人来马来西亚。马来西亚人去新加坡

eskymo

lwdhw 发表于 12-1-2014 04:45 AM
中国没什么好夸奖的。只不过它的治安值得称赞。我在中国，晚上11点多了还能看到三三两两的女孩儿们从电影院 ...

其实是吉隆坡治安太坏了。

好多城市晚上治安都不错。

包括好多附近的东南亚城市。
只是吉隆坡人还以为自己还领先他们而已。

Barryliaozs

只因印度一直把中国当作是竞争对手更一直对自己的国民灌输以追赶中国为首要的目标,所以当他们去到中国时,对比之下就有一种感慨。

Barryliaozs

不过说到那些旅游地点的保洁其实中国做的还很糟,只不过印度比他更糟而已。

krisn

中国的一线城市真的做得很好……都在深圳三年了……每次回到自己的祖国马来西亚，心里都觉得酸酸地，惋惜我们现处于的情况……